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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary triumph.